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From El Paso we caught another bus to Juarez and then on to Chihuahua, a further 5 hours. Chihuahua is a medium-sized city with little to make it worth visiting. The hotel must have been quite nice at one stage, with a high 2-storey courtyard and a Cinderella staircase, however this was a long time ago.

Chihuahua is in cowboy country. Most men wear the hats with jeans and boots. In fact, there are almost entire streets in Chihuahua filled with shops selling boots of almost any colour complete with matching belts.

That night Ange sent me on a mission to get dinner. She had been chattering all day with the locals and it was obviously high time I made myself useful. I found a nacho stall and ordered "Nachos Grandes", as this would clearly be the size hungry, tired travellers needed. Unfortunately I returned with two polystyrene plates of soggy corn chips covered in orange artificial cheese sauce. Ange laughed at me and my "Nachos Gringos".

Mexico Chihuahua cowboy town boots hats belts

Next day we were off again to Durango, a larger city further South. The landscape was typical of what we had seen. High-altitude desert ranging from 1400 to 1900 metres with small brick houses and dusty roads. We stopped every few hours and went to buy snacks from street vendors. Mexico so far is proving to be beyond expectation culinary wise with a few exceptions. Gorditas, a small bread pocket like a pita bread stuffed with combinations of beans, beef, pork, cheese, avocado, salsa and potato, are available everywhere, are cheap and generally delicious.

Late in the afternoon the clouds rolled though with huge bolts of lightning turning the sky purple with the sun setting in oranges and yellows behind. The photos don't come close - it was stunning.

Sunset over the desert Mexico

Today we are in Durango and it is lovely. The city has many old streets, churches, colonial building, markets and the people here are still in their cowboy hats and boots. We also haven't seen any other Gringos yet, this is just perfect!