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We wanted to stay out in the jungle so headed to Rashika's on the way out to the 'ruinas'. The jungle here is great even though the first 2 of 3 nights it poured. You can flag a mini bus that say 'ruinas' from outside the bus terminal and tell them to drop you off at the end of the drive ($7pp otherwise taxis quote about $40). Rashika's again is family run and has a series of covered hammocks and rooms. The room we got for $130 including breakfast was very basic and in need of much TLC. The wires on the light socket that sat on the shelf by the bed were completely exposed, it smelt damp, the shared shower had no door(did have a curtain) the toilet had no light. However, the jungle location more than made up for this and we watched different types of fireflies in the evening, many different birds, lizards, frogs, etc. . . Also the food was delicious. Home made bread, delcious salads, etc. . . They also have dorms, hammocks and rooms with attached bath for over $300. If a little more care was taken here this place would be a lovely place to relax.

Don Muchos next door has rooms with attached bath for $150. They are much nicer, much better value but the excellent restaurant plays music load enough to drown out the insects at night. I can hear Bob Marley any night, but real jungle sounds is a different matter. There restaurant is great and does very good wood-fire pizza.

I normally hate tours and avoid them at all costs but we did do the one to Bonampak and Yaxchilan are worth doing. When we got to Yaxchilan we were the only people there and it was nice to wander around the jungle ruins exploring without any wrist-band wearers. You get there on by boat along the river. We saw 4 good-size crocs sunning themselves. Bonampak is also superb. The paintings inside are comparitively well preserved and make all those white crumbling walls in other ruins so boring by comparison. Very good. The tours from outside Rashikas quoted us $570 each. We went into town and got them for $400 (not including entrance fees) from an agent on the main street.